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The reasons for planting trees on a lifestyle block can be summarised into three general groups:

Care Trees – trees that that look after your property.

Money Trees – trees that you aim to sell in the future to provide some revenue.

Look Trees – trees that are selected because they will improve or enhance the appearance of your property.

Find out more in the goodGround Special Report - Lifestyle Block Trees.

Care Trees

The description of Care Trees is one that embraces any type of tree that looks after your property. So why should you go to all the trouble of planting trees on your lifestyle block? Some of the benefits of Care Trees are:

• they provide shelter for your animals
• they reduce soil erosion
• they stabilise stream banks
• they improve the microclimate for growing plants
• they improve pasture yields
• they keep dogs happy!

Shelter belts

There is always a need to provide shelter from the wind, to shield unwanted views (especially of some ramshackle neighbour’s house), or to define a boundary. The main benefit of planting trees for a wind barrier is to provide shelter for your stock. Shelter belts will reduce the wind speed by as much as 50 % as far as eight times the height of the shelterbelt. To ensure that you get the maximum benefit from your shelter belt, it should be designed specifically for your location and weather conditions. You may need to use a consultant to plan a shelter system to meet your specific needs as there are several principles to consider.

1. Orientation - windbreaks are best planted at right angles to the prevailing wind. It does not take a rocket science degree to work out that there is not much shelter being provided by trees that run in a line in the same direction as the wind. Most of New Zealand is subject to a Sou’ Westerly weather pattern and so the trees should be planted in a South East to North West line. This orientation will also will give protection to the Nor’ Easterly storms so prevalent over summer. The exception is the eastern parts of the South Island where the summer Nor’wester is of such a strength that protection from this direction may be essential, especially in exposed areas like the Canterbury Plains.


2. Length - Windbreaks should be as long as possible for the best protection. If the line of trees is too short, the wind can funnel around the end of the shelter belt and effectiveness is lost.


3. Height - The area protected is directly related to the height of the windbreak. The greater the height of the shelter, the greater the area of wind reduction on both leeward and windward sides. The rule of thumb is that an effective shelter zone should extend about 10 times the height of the windbreak. When laying out the plan of the proposed shelter belt, you need to avoid overhead electricity and telephone lines, underground cables, drains and shading of roads or buildings.


4. Permeability – It seems silly to talk about Shelter Belts needing porosity but they actually should be designed to slow the wind, not to completely stop it. This is best done by selecting the correct species for the site and spacing them at appropriate distances. A 4m intervals for farm shelterbelts is the usual spacing. You want to achieve a degree of permeability that gives an even wind flow. A solid barrier of trees results in turbulence which is not desirable.

A planned approach helps ensure that you get the maximum benefit for your dollar and see you end up with an asset that has improved the value of your property. Make sure you are clear about what you want to achieve with your shelter system. Timber lots on some sites are more productive than a line of shelter trees. So you have to work out if it is purely shelter you want or some income in the future. In about 30 years from now, your stand of trees might yield 400 cubic metres of sawn timber per hectare. At today's price of $170 per cubic metre, that's a potential yield of $68,000 a hectare. If future revenue is important, then a timber lot may be a better choice.

So what trees to use?

In general, trees selected for shelter purposes should be:

• moderately fast-growing
• tolerant to wind
• responsive to trimming
• relatively disease-resistant

The speed of growth and the eventual height of any species will depend on the growing conditions. Exposed locations, with poor, dry soils, will see growth rates far slower than those trees growing in more sheltered, fertile sites. Deciduous trees provide good porosity is summer and in winter when the leaves have fallen, allow the sun through. This reduces the amount of shading and frosting on the southerly side of the shelterbelt. This makes deciduous shelterbelts ideal for shelter from the easterly and the north-westerly.

Pine

Radiata pine (Pinus radiata) would be Number 1 for the frequency with which it is used for shelter belts. It has the advantage of yielding income in 25-30 years, if some maintenance is provided during the first 8 years. It grows quickly and can be handled easily so it is an attractive tree for these reasons. You do have to consider the eventual size that it will grow to as this can be too high for smaller properties. Radiata pine is also the most common tree grown in exotic forests. There are some plantings of other pine species like Corsican pine (Pinus nigra), and Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa), usually on sites that are too difficult for radiata pine. These are more prevalent in the South Island with Southern North American pines more often grown in the north. Another pine that yields good quality timber is the Oregon pine or Douglas fir. It is common in plantations around the middle of the North Island as well as in woodlots.

Macrocarpa

The next most important, and becoming more and more widely planted, is macrocarpa (Cupressus macrocarpa). If not pruned, it grows into a very large-spreading tree with a tendency to become unkempt. Where proper tree-pruning practices are employed, macrocarpa will yield a high-quality durable heartwood timber with many applications. It was widely used by the early boatbuilders and is still popular with woodworkers.

Eucalyptus

Moving onto the broadleaf trees, the most common are the Australian eucalypts. Over 600 species of Eucalyptus have been introduced into New Zealand over the years. Eucalypts are still planted widely on farms although they have not been successful as plantation trees as their timber is difficult to process. The species is subject to pests such as scale and weevil which are becoming more established in New Zealand. Because Eucalyptus are bare-stemmed, the gaps between trees close to the ground will cause wind tunnelling. To prevent this, such species should be under planted with a lower-growing species such as pampas or flax.

Blackwood

Blackwood (Acacia melanoxylon) is a species of wattle has been widely planted in recent years as it produces a beautiful timber popular with cabinetmakers.

Willows

Willows are commonly seen lining rivers and streams as they are used to control flows in flood-prone rivers. If left uncontrolled they can grow to an extent where they choke the waterway and it requires clearing – much to the relief of troutfishers plying their trade along the banks. They are also used to control erosion in gullies. The most common variety is the European crack willow (Salix fragilis). Other willows that have become established along waterways are the weeping willow (Salix babylonica) and the golden willow (Salix vitellina).

Poplars

Poplars are common throughout New Zealand, but they require deep fertile silt to thrive. The species planted are mostly hybrid species with the black poplars being the most common.

Other broadleaf trees, such as European oaks, elms, and walnuts do not do so well in New Zealand. Usually wind or disease affects the growth of these trees.

There are many New Zealand Native Plants that can be utilised in shelter belts, especially in dual or mixed species styles.

For further species see the goodGround Special Report on Lifestyle Block Trees.

Style of Shelter Belt

One Species Shelter Belt

This is the traditional style where only one plant species is used. This style provides a neater appearance with uniform colour and size. It is probably best used where there is confined space and a narrow trimmed edge is needed. Single row shelterbelts tend to be the most stable as the trees have unrestricted root run. They also produce the most wood for the area of land used. However, single row shelterbelts are more vulnerable to wind and the loss of shelter if a tree is lost and a gap results.

Dual Species Shelter Belt

Two species are used – one usually being fast growing and planted to give protection to the slower growing plants which will eventually be the main shelter. This style requires more space but gives greater protection and has more aesthetic appeal. Double-row shelterbelts are almost as stable and are only slightly less productive as a single row. There is less chance of wind tunnelling if a tree is lost because the second row is planted in the gaps of the first row. If a double-row shelterbelt has a fast growing timber tree such as Pinus radiata and a slower growing species such as Cedrus deodara, the pine trees can be pruned to produce good quality timber wood. The cedar will provide shelter when the lower branches of the pine trees are removed.

Mixed Shelter

More a Look Tree effect where a variety of species are planted all mixed together in a row several plants deep. Multi-row shelterbelts are usually not permeable enough to provide good overall shelter unless extensive pruning is done. Overall productivity is considerably lower and internal trees can be prone to windthrow. This type of shelterbelt takes up a substantial area compared with a single row and may not be the best economic use of land on small holdings. Regular pruning of timber trees in multi-row shelterbelts is important to ensure good quality timber. Generally this type of shelter would not be trimmed and could include species not normally used in a shelter belt.

Establishment

It is important that the ground preparation is complete before the trees are received as delays in planting can result in poor tree growth or tree losses. Ripping the ground along the length of the shelterbelt increases drainage, improves tree growth, survival and stability by promoting better tree root development. It should be carried out 3 – 4 months before planting to allow time for ripped lines to partially recompact making planting easier.

Stock-proof fences should be placed at least 2 m away to keep livestock from damaging the new trees. Weed control is important to ensure the young trees flourish without too much competition. Planting sites should be kept clear of competing vegetation for at least 1 year after planting. Keep an area approximately 0.7 – 1.0 metre around your trees free of grasses and weeds. Fertilisers may be required where soils are less fertile.

When planting trees for shelter belts on steep terrain, the following guidelines are recommended:

• Taller shelter trees should be planted in the more productive areas.
• Reduce exposure of trees in open areas by planting them in scattered groups.
• Plant smaller species on the lee slope.
• Plant shelter belts below the crests of a ridge where they can slow the wind but not intrude on the landscape.
• Plant shelter belts in gullies and saddles to reduce erosion.

For spacing configurations see the chart in the goodGround special report on Lifestyle Block Trees.

Planting:

1. Clear all weeds from the planting area.
2. Cultivate an area 40 cm by 40 cm to a depth of at least 30 cm
3. Open up a planting hole large enough to accept the tree’s roots.
4. Spread the roots and place them in the centre of the hole.
5. Replace the earth around the roots.
6. Pull the plant 10 cm up through the fill to ensure that the roots are pointing down.
7. Hold the top of the plant and firm the soil around the stem.
8. Slow release fertiliser tablets can be added to the side of the planting hole.

Maintenance

Pruning

Early pruning can save expensive machine trimming later and can be completed at any time during the year to fit in with the farm management programme. To maintain the best shelter, trees shouldn’t be pruned any higher than the slowest growing species. Removing one whorl of branches each year up to a height of 6 metres can be easily handled. Dense foliage trees such as radiata pine and cypresses will require regular pruning. Those with an open canopy such as eucalyptus and poplars require less maintenance.

Side Trimming

Shelter belts require regular side trimming to maintain their permeability and stability. Tree trimming machines provide a fast and economical method of trimming side branches. Regular side trimming is much cheaper than leaving it until the branches are big and more difficult to remove.

Fan pruning

Fan pruning is a technique where all branches are trimmed except those pointing in the same direction as the row. It is an alternative to side trimming, which will reduce later maintenance but maintain shelter value.

We have tried to give you an overview of how you can use trees to enhance the look of your lifestyle block; how trees can provide shelter for your stock and how you can make money from tree plantings. If this has got you thinking about planting trees, you will be interested in finding out just what trees give you the best returns; what trees provide the most effective shelter and what trees just look good! Go here to find out.

Other goodGround Special Reports that you will benefit from are:

Family Safety - make sure YOUR kids are safe on your block
Lifestyle Block Trees - using trees to your advantage
Alternative Fuels - options and alternatives to oil-based energy and fuels
Make Your Own Bio-fuels - Become a biodiesel homebrewer
Resource Consents - find out what you can legally do with your block.
Making Money from Cattle - find out how YOU can make money from your stock.

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